Bidar in northeast Karnataka is a town off the beaten track for tourists. It was once a witness to momentous events which shaped the destiny of India. A one time capital of the Bahamani and Barid Shahi Kingdoms it finds mention in the epics like the Mahabharat, as the ancient kingdom of Vidarbha.
In 1425 the capital was shifted to Bidar from Gulbarga. Bidar then saw a lot of building activity with beautiful palaces and gardens built. Even the old fort was rebuilt to withstand cannon attacks. The fort is massive with a well preserved entrance Gate. Begin your tour from the Bidar Fort which has 5 gates with imposing bastions in its 5 km wall which lead to the old town nestling within its ramparts. The fort must surely rank among some of the most impressive in the world. Three moats carved from red rock surround it, making it virtually impregnable.
Enter from the Gumbad Gate and climb the steps to the Rangin Mahal, once the royal residence. It has elaborately carved wooden pillars and exquisite mother of pearl inlay work and Persian verses engraved on its tiles. As you walk on past the royal baths and kitchens, you come to the ladies residence with a 15th century 16 columned prayer hall. This Solah Khamba Masjid is the oldest Islamic building in Bidar and considered one of the largest in the country. Explore the Gagan Mahal and the Diwan-e-Am (hall of General Audience) where the fabulous turquoise throne once stood. As you go through the several palaces such as Takhat Mahal, Chini Mahal, and Turki Mahal, the Kazar Kothari the Royal Pavilion and the Naubat Khana you cannot help hut pause and think of how grand a place this must have been in its heyday.
Save some energy to explore the buildings of the Barid Shahis and their royal tombs. The tomb of Ali Barid Shah is a masterpiece in architectural proportions and has a lyrical quality about it Khawaja Mahamurd Gawan College (madarsa) in the middle of the town, is architecturally similar to the Madarsa at Fez. Completed in 1472 it still has some mosaics, some blue and yellow glazed tiles with Quranic Calligraphy on its magnificent minarets.
The old town next to the fort is also surrounded by impregnable walls and impressive gates. At the Chawbara crossing you will come upon the remains of an old watch tower, still over 70 feet high, providing a great view of the town.
As you go on to Ashtur you see the Bahamani tombs decorated with tiles on the outside and paintings on the inside Ahmad Shah's tomb is the most impressive with a lofty dome with calligraphy and floral designs. Persian craftsmen of Bidar who had come to created an art form in the 14th century known as bidriware by moulding together metals like blackened Zine, copper, lead and tin which were then embossed and inlaid with pure silver in decorative motifs. If you wander down the back streets of Bidar you will find the artists at work just as they would have been in the 14th century. You can buy some Bidriware to take back by shopping around Chowbara Road near Bisheshwar Circle. Bidar is only 90 miles from Hyderabad which is also the nearest Airport served by many domestic and international flights.