When the plains start to heat up, thoughts turn to cooler climes and Coonoor in the Nilgiris or Blue Mountains of Tamil Nadu is one such spot. This charming little hill station at 1800 meters is perched on top of the Hulikal ravine giving it great views of beautiful Valleys and imposing waterfalls. These hill were described by Lord Lytton (Viceroy of India 1876-1880) to his wife “It far surpasses all that its most enthusiastic admires and devoted lovers have said about it. The afternoon was rainy and the roads muddy, but such beautiful English rain, such delicious English mud.”
An added bonus is a trip up on the toy train listed as a UNESCO Heritage Site. The Blue Mountain Railway from Mettupalayam (18 miles away) winds up the mountain, puffing and panting past tea gardens and flowering greenscapes giving meaning to the expression, “the journey is the destination”.
Coonoor is divided into Upper and Lower Coonoor. Lower Coonoor has the hustle and hustle of a market place and a lot of activity. The market has its own charm and is a shopper’s delight especially for traditional handicrafts.
To relax you need to head to Upper Coonoor with it’s acres of tea gardens. The restaurants here are also very elegant. It’s spice shops sell the famous spices from this mountain region. So stock up on black pepper, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom and even essential oils like lavender, citronella or Eucalyptus. The fresh roasted aroma of coffee will draw you to the nearest cafe.
Upper Coonoor has the famous Sim’s park. It is a 12 hectare park with over 1000 plant species. Named after JD Sim who was Secretary of the Madras Club, the park has several green archways and meandering brooks. Flower beds lend it colour while trees like the pine, Camelia and magnolia fill it with fragrance. Several shrubs have been used to create the “World Atlas” with different coloured leaves marking out the different continents. Every May the park holds a horticulture show when vegetables and fruits are showcased. At any time visitors can buy the delicious fruit grown here being sold by vendors right outside the Park, as fresh as fresh can be. So pick up some guavas and pomegranates and start eating them right away.
The Toda tribe have inhabited the Nilgiris and you may see them around in their multihued shawls.
During the Raj the British chose Coonoor as a cool retreat and built lovely cottages and churches here many of which dot Upper Coonoor.
“Tranquilitea” which snuggles in a corner of a stately colonial cottage is a delightful tea lounge which just has to be visited. Taste the various Nilgiri teas while munching on brownies and almond cookies, redolent of the Raj.
If you are a bird watcher you will hear the whistling thrushes, woodpeckers and the morning raga of pipits, parakeets, skylarks and the Nilgiri verditer. The waterfall streaked Vales around Dolphins Nose, the beautiful carvings of Lambs Rock and the 180 foot Law’s Falls also attract visitors.
Before you leave visit the Green Shop to pick up some jungle honey, organic coffee and beeswax candles. You wont find these anywhere else. The corner Spencer’s shop also has tea honey.