As you proceed north of the fertile Kullu Valley in Himachal Pradesh the mountains start getting stark and barren rising to an average height of 18000 feet with the highest peak over 21,000 feet. This gives a very pinnacled look to Lahaul which is a cold desert Due to its many monasteries and resident lamas it has often been called the land of lamas. The Lahaul Valley has many glaciers such as Samundari, Soniapani, Gangstang and Perad glaciers, leading Andrew Wilson, a 19th century European traveler to call it the valley of glaciers.
The confluence of the Chandra and the Bhaga rivers or the Chandra Bhagha/ Chanab river has a confluence at Tandi providing life giving water to the area. At Rohtang Pass (13050 ft) which is the gateway to Lahaul(connecting it to Kullu) the mighty roar of the Chandra Bhaga rents the air. According to legend Lord Shiva hit the mountain with a rock to create Rohtang so that the people could cross over from Lahaul to the Kullu valley.
Pattan Valley and the Catchments of Lingti. In summer the summit of Rohtang Pass turns into lush green meadows with wild Himalayan flowers and violets and numerous multihued butterflies flit about. Crossing Rohtang you reach Lahaul. Khoksar is the first village and gateway to Lahaul. In winter it is the coldest in Lahaul. It lay on the old trade route between India and west Asia. Sissue on the right bank of the Chandra River (3130 m) is surrounded by thick plantations of willows and poplars giving it a green belt in summer. Potatoes, peas, barley and buckwheat grow in profusion, as do wild roses in white, yellow and red. In a swampy patch by the side of the river Siberian wild duck and geese halt on their way back from the Indian plains. The river also has snow trout for anglers. Behind the ridge is the venerated Gyehang peak with Lord Gyephang being the presiding deity of Lahaul. At Keylong (3156 m) the capital a museum of tribal art is being built. This museum will display archeological finds, Thangkas, Bhoti manuscripts and Tankri documents. Keyloing is the hub of all commercial activity with a bustling bazaar. In the summer it books refreshingly green like a rough cut emerald in a bronze and silver setting
4 km from Keylong is the 900 years old Khardong Gompa 96 the largest in the area, with about 30 lamas and Chomos (nuns) in residence. It has some old prayer wheels, murals and a large statue of Buddha as well as a library of old manuscripts. 3 km away is the Sashur Gompa built in the 16th Century it is famous for its 5 meter Thangka. Its festival held every June/ July has the lamas perform masked dances. 18 km from Keylong is Gondhla famous for its fort built in 1700 AD. The 7 storey high fort is built of stone and wood. Ganesha is the main deity carved on the fade of the prayer chamber. Every July a fair is held at the village Gompa and draws a large number of visitors. The Guru Ghantal Gompa, which belongs to the Drukpa order (most Gompas belong to the Gelukpa sect) is built of wood with beautiful carvings and is renowned for its idol of Guru Padmasambhav.
Half the people of Lahaul are Buddhists and the other half Hindus so in some temple and homes idols of both faiths are worshiped side by side. The lamas however dominate the region, as do the numerous monasteries. In the summer grow crops of potatoes and maize as well as hops, the only region in India to grow hops. Kuth a herb of medicinal value is exported even to Europe. The Yaks and goats are a integral part of village life yielding the butter for the lamps lit in monasteries and even drunk in tea.
Today many trekkers come over from Kullu to traverse the barren mountains of Lahaul Interesting treks have been marked out such as the Gramphu trek starting at the base of Rohtang and the Khoksar Darcha trek via Keylong.
The Lahaulis having a distinctive dress very different from that of their neighbors in Kullu. Their silver Jewelry is also distinctive and beautiful. They are friendly and welcome visitors. Festivals and fairs, held mainly in the summer, bring cheer to their otherwise stark and difficult existence. Community singing and dancing, feasting and buying and selling are an integral part of these gatherings.
Udaipur (53 km from Keylong) is famous for its Temple of Trilokinath and the wooden temple of Mrikula Devi. Udaipur has forests of blue pine and since the altitude is low apples, walnuts and apricots grow in the area.
The locals create some beautiful crafts such as woodcarvings, thangkas, masks and silver jewelry and bronze artifacts and items of everyday use. The nearest airport is Kullu and Lahaul is reached by road from Manali over the Rohtang pass.