About 150 miles from Bangalore, Karnataka lies Mercara the picturesque town Coorg, the land of coffee, cardamom, Colonels (of the army) and the Cauvery River. Its misty hills, lush forests and breath taking views earned it the name Scotland of India.
In the center of Mercara lies the Mercara fort which houses a temple, a chapel, a prison and a small museum. Walk to Raja's seat, a vantage point for the best views. Close to the fort lies the 19th century Omkareshwara temple, with red-tiled Kerala style roofs and Islamic style domes. Stop by to see the tombs of Dodda Vira Raya, his wife and their son Lingaraja. These again have Islamic overtones with domes and trellis work.
There are many waterfalls around, with Abbey Falls finally flowing as a small river. The Bhagamadala (20 old miles away) lies at the confluence of 3 rivers (the Cauvery, Kanika and Sujyothi), with a temple in the Kerala style and several smaller shrines around. 30 miles from Mercara lies the source of the Cauvery river (Telacauvery) and a place of pilgrimage.
The tall, handsome Coorgis have long been recognized as a martial race and many of India's famous army officers came from the region including its first Indian Commander in Chief Field Marshall BM Cariappa. In fact even the British permitted the Coorgis to carry licensed fire arms a tradition followed to this day.
Mercara lies in a hilly area surrounded by the forested hills of the Western Ghats. It's roads are lined with hedgerows, flowering trees, spice plantations and coffee estates. It's a world apart from the rest of Karnataka. It's undulating streets and breathtaking views draw many visitors particularly trekkers who enjoy the lovely mountain trails.
The red berries of the coffee estates, the cardamom fields, old silver oak trees are all spread out like some painter's canvas. In March and April fragrant white blossoms cover the green coffee plants.
Mercara with its wooded hills and picture postcard scenery reminded the British of a little corner of England. The coffee plantations left behind by them are still a source of revenue for the area.
The town has an old world charm with its red roofed houses and a bustling bazaar. Situated at a height of 1525 meters it has a cool and pleasant climate. However, as you look around you feel as though Mercara is frozen in time belonging to another world, another age. While strolling around the bazaar stop for a cup of coffee and even buy some to take home for yourself or as a gift as also honey, cardamom and pepper.
The Pandhi, koli and Bembla curry, Kadumbuttu, noolputta and Voti are all part o Coorg's delicious cuisine specially when followed by excellent freshly brewed local coffee. Homestays are unique to Mercara and staying a couple of nights on a coffee estate with home-style cooking is a unique experience.
Mercara enjoys its festivals. Kial Podu is celebrated in September and the Tulasankramana in October. Huthrie is a special harvest festival celebrated on a full moon night in November/December. It celebrates the season's harvest with ceremony and music and a lot of feasting.
Before you leave take a deep breath and take in the fresh air of Coorg and carry back the aroma of Coffee.