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As our plane descended towards Srinagar we were welcomed by beautiful mustard yellow fields and snow capped mountains. The feeling of purity and calmness sets in and the base is made for what will be an amazing journey.   This was my fourth trip to Srinagar. We were staying on the Dal Lake. The drive from Srinagar airport to Dal Lake takes less than one hour. As you approach the boulevard road, you are amazed by the unique and eventful life on the Dal Lake and the famous houseboats of Srinagar.   Our houseboat was in the ‘open lake’… the shikara was waiting for us as we arrived at Ghat No 17 of the Dal Lake. A short shikara ride on the lake brought us to our houseboat. We stepped onto the deck and then onto the porch of the houseboat, where following Kashimir traditions we removed our shoes before we entered the living hall of our houseboat. The houseboat had three ensuite bedrooms, living areas and dinning room and a small pantry. Most houseboats have three rooms, a few have four and even fewer have two. If you are visiting in a group , you can book your stay at a ‘group’ of houseboats, which normally is a collaboration between a few neighboring houseboats.   It is recommend to prebook your dinner at the houseboat. Your houseboat incharge will often consult you before finalising your dinner menu. You can request your food to be spicy to mild; from Kashmiri to Continental …though I highly recommend sticking to Kashmiri food while in Kashmir. Some of my favourite dishes are Gustaba (pounded meat balls in a yogurt gravy), Rishta (pounded meat balls in a onion and tomato gravy), Rogan josh (mutton on the bones cooked in a tomato and onion gravy), Nihari (lotus stem cooked in a yogurt gravy), Palak saag( Mutton cooked with spinach). All of these are best eaten with boiled rice. You can also try the traditional Kashmiri bread. It is softer and fluffier version of the naan bread, similar to the afghani bread. On the houseboat you will be able to get rice and chapati (traditional indian bread made on a iron pan) as most houseboats will not have a tandoor( clay oven) in which the Kashmiri naan bread is made. To finish a meal you must try the famous Firni ( rice cooked in sweetened saffron milk flavoured with cardamons).It is best eaten cold and often served in a earthen bowl.   The Sikaara ride is a fun experience. As you travel on the waters of Dal Lake, you are welcomed by local vendors. You can enjoy a fresh fruit salad, hot Kehva, or even freshly barbecued Kebabs. As you travel through the back lanes of the Dal lake, you cross the floating market where you can buy carpets, cloths and wood carved items .You will also go past homes of locals. There are also shops on boat where you can purchase a range of souvenirs to take back.   Srinagar is home to the famous beautiful Mugal Gardens, Jama Majid , Dargha Hazratbal and Shankachariya temple. There are three gardens, Nishat Bagh, Shalimar Bagh and Chasma Shahi. The best ones is Shalimar Bagh followed closely by Nishat Bagh .The Shankachariya temple is on top of a hill. One you drive up to the top, you need to walk up 100 steps to reach the temple. The steps are small and very easy to walk up on. You don’t feel any strain on your knees or legs while walking up. The Hazratbal Dargha is a fascinating experience. Pigeons are seen in large numbers outside the Dargha . There are local eateries around the Dargha serving some lovely Kebabs and super large naan bread. You can also find vendors selling flowers and other offerings for the Dargha. The Jama Majid in Srinagar, is a unique piece of architecture. It is a good mix of arabic, Persian and Kashmiri architecture.   Gulmarg, Sonmarg and Pahalgam are the three prominent tourist destinations in Kashmir after Srinagar. You can go for a day trip or overnight excursion to these places from Srinagar.   Gulmarg is a one and a half to two hour drive from Srinagar, while Sonmarg and Pahalgam are both two and half hours drive from Srinagar. You would have to take a local car and guide for sightseeing in these places as vehicles from Srinagar are not allowed for sightseeing. Your vehicle from Srinagar will only be able to drop you till your destination and bring you back to Srinagar. If you are not equipped for the snow, then there are a number of vendors who are lined up to rent out boots and jackets enroute. Your driver will take you to a rental shop he recommends. There is really no difference as all the shops rent out the same things.   Activities available at Gulmarg and Sonmarg include, snow biking, snow sledging and skiing. In Pahalgam, you can walk up or take a pony to Bisaran which is a plateau surrounded by beautiful Pine and Deodar trees. On the way to Pahalgam and Sonmarg, stop by a stream for a hot cup of Kehva. In Gulmarg you can also take a Gondola (cable car) ride. It is a beautiful 10 minute journey. There are two points where the Gondola stops, I have always been until the first point and second point is mostly for skiers.   Do buy yourself some walnut wood souvenirs, hand embroidered scarves, paper mache gift items and some original Kashimiri dry fruits and spices to take back with you. The best place to shop is Srinagar is Polo View. It is a street a small sheet with handicraft, souvenir and dry fruit shops.   Kashmir is a all year destination. It is not possible to visit Sonmarg once it starts snowing as the roads close. Gulmarg has become India’s Ski capital with skiers coming from around the world in January and February. Pehlagam is best

Nestled beside the holy Ganges River in the center of India sits Varanasi, a city with a history that is as ancient as time itself. Varanasi is considered by spirituality to be the home of the gods, making it one of the most sacred locations in India. Traveling to Varanasi is considered a pilgrimage by Hindus, who view it as a necessary desire to bathe in the sacred Ganga and purify their bodies and souls.   Traditionally, Varanasi is also a final destination for Hindus, where last rites and cremations take place. An unusual feature of India is the cremation ghat 24-hour operation, allowing for ceremonies even after sunset. believing the river’s flow will carry the souls to Varanasi.   We left Delhi early in the morning for this historic city, taking advantage of the convenient and reasonably priced overnight rail service. I chose an A/C first-class cabin for myself and my four-year-old daughter, which offered a cozy and safe place. Flights from major cities, including an international airport for travelers from Nepal, link to Varanasi, making it easily reachable by air as well.   When we arrived in Varanasi early in the morning, a representative met us at the railway station and showed us the way to our vehicle and, ultimately, our riverfront hotel in the ancient city. It is recommended to stay in the ancient city because there are many luxurious and affordable lodging options on the river ghat.   Our travels took us to Sarnath, the site of Gautam Buddha’s first sermon. Visits to the Chaukhandi Stupa, Dhamek Stupa, the Statue of Standing Buddha, and the Sarnath Museum were all part of the Sarnath experience. We returned to Varanasi after a short trip, and before exploring the city’s rich silk culture, we had a brief lunch in the cantonment area.   The age-old skill of weaving Banarasi silk is what makes Varanasi, also known as Banaras. The complex process of producing silk was revealed during a visit to a weaver’s colony, where families have been keeping their weaving techniques a secret for generations. Small rooms with doors that led to specialized artisans’ demonstration areas provided a chance to buy real silk goods.   As the temple tour progressed, we visited the famous Vishwanath Temple, Banaras Hindu University, and Bharat Mata ka Mandir. We experienced the vibrant street life, sampled local cuisine, and fully immersed ourselves in the real Banarasi experience as we traveled through the old city’s streets.   The magical evening aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat, a captivating display of chants, music, and celebration against the backdrop of the Ganges.   Our journey’s high point was an early-morning boat ride the next morning. Our private boat ride on the Ganges was peaceful as we passed by famous ghats and our guide explained their historical significance. Local customs, such as families taking a morning swim or kids swimming, created a vivid picture of life by the river.   We disembarked at Assi Ghat as the sun rose, exploring the market, watching yoga classes, and sipping cool lemon tea. Seeing a wrestling school gave me an understanding of the disciplined way of life and training that young wrestlers follow.   After a traditional breakfast of hot jalebis and Sabzi Kachori, we said goodbye to Varanasi and headed to the airport. Varanasi retained all of its charm. Even though we were able to see the most of the city in one day, it is best to spread out your exploration over two days. For visitors in the future, October through March is the best time to witness Varanasi’s enchantment, with November through February being the busiest months.

This blog may seem to be mostly about the Taj Mahal, but the fact is that Agra is mostly about the Taj Mahal so it is only right to dedicate 80% of the blog to the spectacular and only one of its kind, Taj Mahal. No matter how many times you visit Agra and see the Taj Mahal, it is never enough. The Startling white beauty of the Taj Mahal set against the vibrant blue sky, reflecting into the water pond leading to it is a sight that never fades away.   The Taj Mahal was built by Mughal ruler Shah Jahan in remembrance of his beloved wife Mumtaz. Now standing since 1643, the white marble mausoleum took Eleven years to be built . In the following 10 years other building including a mosque were built in the same complex. In 1983 the Taj Mahal designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for being “ the jewel of Muslim art in India” . In 2007 it was the winner of the new 7 wonder of the world and for good reason.   All tourist and local transport vehicles only go upto the parking on the Taj Mahal. From the parking, you can either walk or take a battery van or a rickshaw until the ticket counter of the Taj Mahal. You can either by a “high value” ticket or a “general public” ticket. Non- Indian national can only purchase the high value ticket. India national are pick between the two. The high value tickets gives you express entry into the Taj Mahal so it is definitely the better option. Once you purchase your ticket and go through security, you come to the outer gates and walls of the Taj Mahal. You can not see the Taj Mahal just yet, but another few steps towards the arch of the gate will give you the best view of the Taj. Look below !!!   Once you go though the gates, you can walk down the paths in between the gardens and the water ponds to the Taj. You must climb a few steps to the enter the Taj Mahal. Once you are on top, do go around the Taj Mahal. You will get to see the river Yamuna following behind the Taj . As the myth goes, Shah Jahan had planed to built a black mausoleum for himself across the Yamuna river but could not complete it as he was put under house arrest by him son. You can also enter the Taj Mahal but the actual cannot see the actual burial sight of Shahjahan and his beloved wife Mumtaz .Their graves are at a lower level, underneath the inner chambers of the Taj Mahal.   The best time to visit the Taj Mahal is early morning . The Taj opens at sunrise and closes at sunset, like most monuments in India. Entry to the Taj normally starts at 7-7:30. It is a good idea to reach early to avoid queues to get in. Early mornings are also less crowed so a good opportunity to get a perfect picture with just you can the Taj Mahal.   The best months to visit the Taj Mahal are November and February when the sky is mostly clear and the temperatures are low. December and January are also good months as the temperature stays low through out the day and on most days it is nice a sunny. Avoid early morning visits during these months as morning tend to be very foggy and views are not very clear. March -April and September – October , are good months for early morning visits and late afternoon visits. May-August are very very hot months , with June- July being the hottest time of the year. Temperature goes up to 45 degree Celsius. I would only recommend visiting the Taj early in the morning . The sun becomes very sharp by about 8-9 pm. The Taj also opens early during the summer months.   If possible , visit Agra on a full moon nights ( or a day before or after) . Only 50 tickets are sold for a 30 minute visit to see the Taj Mahal against the magnificent white shinning moon. It is not a guided tour and a tourist guide cannot accompany you. Well you can take a guide with you, but the guide needs to have him or her own valid ticket to enter. It is a spectacular sight and the Taj Mahal is at it best when soaked in the pure reflection of the Moon light.   On all my three visits into Agra, I have only visited the Taj Mahal. However, there is more to Agra than just the Taj Mahal. Agra Fort- where Shahjahan was kept captive by his son until he died. Tomb of I’timād-ud-Daulah more commonly know as the Baby Taj or Jewel Box is a miniature version of the Taj Mahal. Mehtab Bagh – gardens across the river Yamuna for a different view of the Taj Mahal. There is also an evening musical on the Taj Mahal and a heritage walk of Agra taking you through the hidden spots of the city.   Agra is located at a convenient 3 -4 hour drive from Delhi. There is also an option taking a super fast train – along with a number of other frequent trains. The train from Delhi will take about 2-3 hours depending on the train you select. Trains from other major cities also stop at Agra. You can also fly into Agra, but flights are not very frequent and on most occasions , once or twice a week only.   We drove from Delhi to Agra in a 12 seat mini van. It took us 4 hours including a hour lunch break. Our driver was very particular about not over speeding on the state of the art – Express way. Unless , you have other stops enroute, insist on taking the express way from Delhi to Agra. It is

Question: Why visit Ranthambore? Answer: To see a Tiger. Question: Did I see a Tiger? Answer: Yes we did!!! We saw the beautiful and magnificent Tigress Noor. Sawai Madhopur is a small city in Rajasthan famous for  the Ranthambore National Park and Ranthambore Fort which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. when you enter the city, you come onto one long road leading to the National Park . All hotels in Ramthambore  are on either side of this road , with some new hotels off the road. There are not much options to eat outside so it would be best to take a full board package from your hotel including all three major meals or at least two major meals . All tickets for the jungle safari are sold and managed by the government so you can either book it directly with them or via a agent . You will need to give your name as on your passport or photo id proof while booking. Tickets are non-refundable and cannot be transferred to someone else name. You can either book a seat on the Jeep (6 seats) or a Canter ( 20 seats). There are 10 zones. Zone 1-5 are the main core areas and Zone 6- 10 are the buffer zones. You cannot pick your zone , it is automatically allocated to you. It is normally recommended to pre-book three safari’s at Ranthambore to increase your chances of a Tiger sighting. We had booked only two safari’s for ourselves as we were travelling in the month of June. It is very hot in North India in June and I did not see ourselves taking an afternoon open jeep safari in 45 degree Celsius with the sun burning down our heads. So we booked two-morning safari’s which were good for us. Our first safari was long and exciting. We were allocated zone 4 for our first safari. My four-year-old was with us on the Safari, as she was very excited to see the peacocks, monkeys, wild deer, antelopes and some beautiful birds . As the safari continued,  we got a little tired as we didn’t know how much longer it would be and we had still not seen a Tiger. Our daughter had also lost interest and really just wanted to go back to the hotel. I think this was because it had started to get hot, she had been up really early and of course as we didn’t see a tiger. The driver did make one toilet break in the middle of the safari , so that was a good thing!! On our first Safari, I also felt that our naturalist and driver already knew that there will be no tiger sightseeing on our journey and we were on a wild goose chase.  Why I say this is because, the naturalist who travels with you and the driver do this every day, twice a day. They know the jungle and the animals there. The safari ended in disappointment as we didn’t see the tiger and the excitement of everything else that we did see, faded away soon. My observation was further confirmed on our second safari when we actually did see the tiger. Our driver knew where the tiger was and drove us straight to that point, there was driving around or chasing or looking or guessing. Our second safari was in Zone 2. Tigress Noor was sleeping right next to the driving track. She was long and big and had the most beautiful curves. It was a beautiful sight and like no other I had ever seen. The feeling is simply fantastic when you actually see the wild beast right in front of you. Our day was made and the trip was successful so we just drove out of the national park back to our hotel for a relaxed day. There is really nothing to do in Ranthambore. So pick a good hotel with a pool and a spa to keep you busy. If you are travelling with children, check if your hotel organises activities to keep your children busy. Our hotel did have cycles which guest could use at no extra cost, a children’s play area, a pool and a gymnasium and spa. The also organised magic show and live music and folk dance in the evenings. Ranthambore is flooded with Peacocks and Peahens, I haven’t seen so many peacocks in one place, they are all over and you will be many of them while in Ranthambore. There is a lovely Fort in Ranthambore which you can visit during the day. It is a long way up to the fort but the walk is quite easy and comfortable. Be ready to meet lots of monkeys and peacocks on the way up. We drove from Delhi to Ranthambore. It took us 9 hours but the drive was not too bad. We also enjoy driving through the countryside, so it was nice. To cut the journey short, you can travel to Ranthambore from Agra (5-6 hours drive) or Jaipur ( 3 hours drive). The other options to reach Ranthambore is by train- there are direct trains from Delhi, Agra, Jaipur and Mumbai. You can also fly to Jaipur and drive to Ranthambore from there. I visited Ranthambore in June 2017 for three nights which were needed considering it was a long drive away. The tourist season in Ranthambore is from October – March. However, the best time to sight a Tiger is from April-June when the temperature is hot and the Tigers come out to find water.  The national park closes from July – September and reopens each year on 1 October.

My trip to Kolkata was an express trip. I had 12 hours to see everything in the city and I wanted to “see” everything. I was received at the airport by my guide and driver, and we quickly laid out the plan for the day.  Kolkata is divided in three parts, North, Central and South. The airport is towards the North of the city, so we planned to first explore North Kolkata.   First stop on my Kolkata tour was the beautiful Jain temples. The temple complex is very “international”. It has tiles and sculptures from all around the world. The main temple is made up of beautiful plain and coloured glass work and mirrors. It is a sight for the eyes and very well maintained. The temple was made in 1867 and is still maintained by the family of the founder. Inside the temple are beautiful Chandelier from the Bahamas, Cuba, and Belgium. The temple complex is surrounded by two other Jain temples.   There is a lamp inside the main temple, which burns with ghee. The lamp has been burning since the initiation of the temple in 1867. Photography inside the temple is not allowed so you must visit it to see how stunning it for yourself.   The next stop on my Kolkata exploration was Kumortuli, a traditional potters’ village in northern Kolkata. It is an amazing destination in old Kolkata and a definite “must visit”. As you walk into the narrow lane of the colony you witness the daily routine of the private and professional life of the residents.   In Kolkata, idols are made of hay and mud which after a religious ceremony are immersed in the river Ganga. Kumortuli is home to craftsman who make such idols. The idols are made in different steps and for each step, there are different craftsmen specialising in that one element. I have never believed in idol worship, but it was a fantastic experience for me to witness the fine craftsmanship of the potters of Kumortuli – Kolkata’s very own potters’ village.   In Hindu mythology, Durga is the Goddess of feminist power, strength, and protection. Durga means the one who eliminates suffering. Her legend is that she defeated the demons of evil. Durga Puja is celebrating every year to rejoice the victory of the goddess Durga over the demon king Mahishasura.   I visited Kolkata on an auspicious day and most businesses and homes were preparing for a pooja in the early hours of the morning. Homes and shops were decorated with beautiful decorations made of Sholapith (also known as the Indian cork). The delicate flower decorations and idol imitations were a treat for the eye. Right outside Kumortuli, I witnessed the charm of the old rustic, ageing buildings of North Kolkata, the famous Kolkata tram line and Kolkata’s famous Hand-pulled rickshaws in action.   Other places to see in North Kolkata are: Marble palace– A privately owned palace with a beautiful collection of artefacts from around the world; Rabindranath Tagore’s home. This is now a university and museum. The famous poet lived and died here; Nakhoda mosque, which is the oldest and biggest mosque of Kolkata. Kolkata is home to India’s first and oldest schools and university. College street in central Kolkata is lined with bookshops where you can buy and sell new and used books. Calcutta University, which is the oldest university of India in also located here.   College Street is also home to the famous Indian Coffee House. Indian Coffee House is a “must stop” in the city of joy … it is old and rustic and takes you back in time. The menu is very reasonable, and the coffee is great. I also tried the Singara, which is the Bengali name for a Samosa. You must visit the coffee house for its old charm. The interiors of the coffee house take you back in time. It is very basic and not even close to sophistication but if you don’t stop here for a cup of hot coffee you will miss something.       The Flower Market of Kolkata was undoubtedly the most thrilling part of my day. If there is only one place in Kolkata which you can visit, then it should be this. As you walk across the footbridge, over the rustic railway tracks, you cross a line of flower vendors, squatting on the road with their basket of flowers. It is easy to believe that this is the flower market, but not just yet.   Over the bridge and beside the Ganga River is home to the breathtaking Kolkata Flower market. The colours are a treat for the eye and so is the aroma from the flowers. Each section is dedicated to a particular variety of flower. There are flowers everywhere and in thousands. The flower market is very crowded, and you must swiftly move. There was absolutely no time to stop and admire without having a few people bump into you.  Porters carrying heavy flower baskets on their head, like to keep moving without interruption. The ground is muddy and slippery- I would recommend wearing comfortable shoes when you visit. I wore slippers and came out with black feet!!   The famous Howrah bridge located right beside the flower market. I got a good view of the bridge from the river side and had an opportunity to walk over the bridge. The bridge has a separate pedestrian walkway which is lined with vendors selling, cool drinks and street snacks. By the time I reached the flower market, it was already noon, and the sun was shining with all its glory. It was hot and humid. By the river side, you will see locals resting and taking a break from their work for their afternoon snack. Some people were taking a dip in the river as well.   It was now 12 noon; the traditional blue buses and yellow taxis criss-crossed the busy roads of the city. As the sun was shining in all its glory, in true Kolkata style the locals had their umbrellas out to guard them against the scorching sun.