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Agra – Home to the Magnificent Taj Mahal

This blog may seem to be mostly about the Taj Mahal, but the fact is that Agra is mostly about the Taj Mahal so it is only right to dedicate 80% of the blog to the spectacular and only one of its kind, Taj Mahal. No matter how many times you visit Agra and see the Taj Mahal, it is never enough. The Startling white beauty of the Taj Mahal set against the vibrant blue sky, reflecting into the water pond leading to it is a sight that never fades away.   The Taj Mahal was built by Mughal ruler Shah Jahan in remembrance of his beloved wife Mumtaz. Now standing since 1643, the white marble mausoleum took Eleven years to be built . In the following 10 years other building including a mosque were built in the same complex. In 1983 the Taj Mahal designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for being “ the jewel of Muslim art in India” . In 2007 it was the winner of the new 7 wonder of the world and for good reason.   All tourist and local transport vehicles only go upto the parking on the Taj Mahal. From the parking, you can either walk or take a battery van or a rickshaw until the ticket counter of the Taj Mahal. You can either by a “high value” ticket or a “general public” ticket. Non- Indian national can only purchase the high value ticket. India national are pick between the two. The high value tickets gives you express entry into the Taj Mahal so it is definitely the better option. Once you purchase your ticket and go through security, you come to the outer gates and walls of the Taj Mahal. You can not see the Taj Mahal just yet, but another few steps towards the arch of the gate will give you the best view of the Taj. Look below !!!   Once you go though the gates, you can walk down the paths in between the gardens and the water ponds to the Taj. You must climb a few steps to the enter the Taj Mahal. Once you are on top, do go around the Taj Mahal. You will get to see the river Yamuna following behind the Taj . As the myth goes, Shah Jahan had planed to built a black mausoleum for himself across the Yamuna river but could not complete it as he was put under house arrest by him son. You can also enter the Taj Mahal but the actual cannot see the actual burial sight of Shahjahan and his beloved wife Mumtaz .Their graves are at a lower level, underneath the inner chambers of the Taj Mahal.   The best time to visit the Taj Mahal is early morning . The Taj opens at sunrise and closes at sunset, like most monuments in India. Entry to the Taj normally starts at 7-7:30. It is a good idea to reach early to avoid queues to get in. Early mornings are also less crowed so a good opportunity to get a perfect picture with just you can the Taj Mahal.   The best months to visit the Taj Mahal are November and February when the sky is mostly clear and the temperatures are low. December and January are also good months as the temperature stays low through out the day and on most days it is nice a sunny. Avoid early morning visits during these months as morning tend to be very foggy and views are not very clear. March -April and September – October , are good months for early morning visits and late afternoon visits. May-August are very very hot months , with June- July being the hottest time of the year. Temperature goes up to 45 degree Celsius. I would only recommend visiting the Taj early in the morning . The sun becomes very sharp by about 8-9 pm. The Taj also opens early during the summer months.   If possible , visit Agra on a full moon nights ( or a day before or after) . Only 50 tickets are sold for a 30 minute visit to see the Taj Mahal against the magnificent white shinning moon. It is not a guided tour and a tourist guide cannot accompany you. Well you can take a guide with you, but the guide needs to have him or her own valid ticket to enter. It is a spectacular sight and the Taj Mahal is at it best when soaked in the pure reflection of the Moon light.   On all my three visits into Agra, I have only visited the Taj Mahal. However, there is more to Agra than just the Taj Mahal. Agra Fort- where Shahjahan was kept captive by his son until he died. Tomb of I’timād-ud-Daulah more commonly know as the Baby Taj or Jewel Box is a miniature version of the Taj Mahal. Mehtab Bagh – gardens across the river Yamuna for a different view of the Taj Mahal. There is also an evening musical on the Taj Mahal and a heritage walk of Agra taking you through the hidden spots of the city.   Agra is located at a convenient 3 -4 hour drive from Delhi. There is also an option taking a super fast train – along with a number of other frequent trains. The train from Delhi will take about 2-3 hours depending on the train you select. Trains from other major cities also stop at Agra. You can also fly into Agra, but flights are not very frequent and on most occasions , once or twice a week only.   We drove from Delhi to Agra in a 12 seat mini van. It took us 4 hours including a hour lunch break. Our driver was very particular about not over speeding on the state of the art – Express way. Unless , you have other stops enroute, insist on taking the express way from Delhi to Agra. It is

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Ranthambore National Park – The Tiger’s Abode

Question: Why visit Ranthambore? Answer: To see a Tiger. Question: Did I see a Tiger? Answer: Yes we did!!! We saw the beautiful and magnificent Tigress Noor. Sawai Madhopur is a small city in Rajasthan famous for  the Ranthambore National Park and Ranthambore Fort which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. when you enter the city, you come onto one long road leading to the National Park . All hotels in Ramthambore  are on either side of this road , with some new hotels off the road. There are not much options to eat outside so it would be best to take a full board package from your hotel including all three major meals or at least two major meals . All tickets for the jungle safari are sold and managed by the government so you can either book it directly with them or via a agent . You will need to give your name as on your passport or photo id proof while booking. Tickets are non-refundable and cannot be transferred to someone else name. You can either book a seat on the Jeep (6 seats) or a Canter ( 20 seats). There are 10 zones. Zone 1-5 are the main core areas and Zone 6- 10 are the buffer zones. You cannot pick your zone , it is automatically allocated to you. It is normally recommended to pre-book three safari’s at Ranthambore to increase your chances of a Tiger sighting. We had booked only two safari’s for ourselves as we were travelling in the month of June. It is very hot in North India in June and I did not see ourselves taking an afternoon open jeep safari in 45 degree Celsius with the sun burning down our heads. So we booked two-morning safari’s which were good for us. Our first safari was long and exciting. We were allocated zone 4 for our first safari. My four-year-old was with us on the Safari, as she was very excited to see the peacocks, monkeys, wild deer, antelopes and some beautiful birds . As the safari continued,  we got a little tired as we didn’t know how much longer it would be and we had still not seen a Tiger. Our daughter had also lost interest and really just wanted to go back to the hotel. I think this was because it had started to get hot, she had been up really early and of course as we didn’t see a tiger. The driver did make one toilet break in the middle of the safari , so that was a good thing!! On our first Safari, I also felt that our naturalist and driver already knew that there will be no tiger sightseeing on our journey and we were on a wild goose chase.  Why I say this is because, the naturalist who travels with you and the driver do this every day, twice a day. They know the jungle and the animals there. The safari ended in disappointment as we didn’t see the tiger and the excitement of everything else that we did see, faded away soon. My observation was further confirmed on our second safari when we actually did see the tiger. Our driver knew where the tiger was and drove us straight to that point, there was driving around or chasing or looking or guessing. Our second safari was in Zone 2. Tigress Noor was sleeping right next to the driving track. She was long and big and had the most beautiful curves. It was a beautiful sight and like no other I had ever seen. The feeling is simply fantastic when you actually see the wild beast right in front of you. Our day was made and the trip was successful so we just drove out of the national park back to our hotel for a relaxed day. There is really nothing to do in Ranthambore. So pick a good hotel with a pool and a spa to keep you busy. If you are travelling with children, check if your hotel organises activities to keep your children busy. Our hotel did have cycles which guest could use at no extra cost, a children’s play area, a pool and a gymnasium and spa. The also organised magic show and live music and folk dance in the evenings. Ranthambore is flooded with Peacocks and Peahens, I haven’t seen so many peacocks in one place, they are all over and you will be many of them while in Ranthambore. There is a lovely Fort in Ranthambore which you can visit during the day. It is a long way up to the fort but the walk is quite easy and comfortable. Be ready to meet lots of monkeys and peacocks on the way up. We drove from Delhi to Ranthambore. It took us 9 hours but the drive was not too bad. We also enjoy driving through the countryside, so it was nice. To cut the journey short, you can travel to Ranthambore from Agra (5-6 hours drive) or Jaipur ( 3 hours drive). The other options to reach Ranthambore is by train- there are direct trains from Delhi, Agra, Jaipur and Mumbai. You can also fly to Jaipur and drive to Ranthambore from there. I visited Ranthambore in June 2017 for three nights which were needed considering it was a long drive away. The tourist season in Ranthambore is from October – March. However, the best time to sight a Tiger is from April-June when the temperature is hot and the Tigers come out to find water.  The national park closes from July – September and reopens each year on 1 October.

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Kolkata-The City of Joy

My trip to Kolkata was an express trip. I had 12 hours to see everything in the city and I wanted to “see” everything. I was received at the airport by my guide and driver, and we quickly laid out the plan for the day.  Kolkata is divided in three parts, North, Central and South. The airport is towards the North of the city, so we planned to first explore North Kolkata.   First stop on my Kolkata tour was the beautiful Jain temples. The temple complex is very “international”. It has tiles and sculptures from all around the world. The main temple is made up of beautiful plain and coloured glass work and mirrors. It is a sight for the eyes and very well maintained. The temple was made in 1867 and is still maintained by the family of the founder. Inside the temple are beautiful Chandelier from the Bahamas, Cuba, and Belgium. The temple complex is surrounded by two other Jain temples.   There is a lamp inside the main temple, which burns with ghee. The lamp has been burning since the initiation of the temple in 1867. Photography inside the temple is not allowed so you must visit it to see how stunning it for yourself.   The next stop on my Kolkata exploration was Kumortuli, a traditional potters’ village in northern Kolkata. It is an amazing destination in old Kolkata and a definite “must visit”. As you walk into the narrow lane of the colony you witness the daily routine of the private and professional life of the residents.   In Kolkata, idols are made of hay and mud which after a religious ceremony are immersed in the river Ganga. Kumortuli is home to craftsman who make such idols. The idols are made in different steps and for each step, there are different craftsmen specialising in that one element. I have never believed in idol worship, but it was a fantastic experience for me to witness the fine craftsmanship of the potters of Kumortuli – Kolkata’s very own potters’ village.   In Hindu mythology, Durga is the Goddess of feminist power, strength, and protection. Durga means the one who eliminates suffering. Her legend is that she defeated the demons of evil. Durga Puja is celebrating every year to rejoice the victory of the goddess Durga over the demon king Mahishasura.   I visited Kolkata on an auspicious day and most businesses and homes were preparing for a pooja in the early hours of the morning. Homes and shops were decorated with beautiful decorations made of Sholapith (also known as the Indian cork). The delicate flower decorations and idol imitations were a treat for the eye. Right outside Kumortuli, I witnessed the charm of the old rustic, ageing buildings of North Kolkata, the famous Kolkata tram line and Kolkata’s famous Hand-pulled rickshaws in action.   Other places to see in North Kolkata are: Marble palace– A privately owned palace with a beautiful collection of artefacts from around the world; Rabindranath Tagore’s home. This is now a university and museum. The famous poet lived and died here; Nakhoda mosque, which is the oldest and biggest mosque of Kolkata. Kolkata is home to India’s first and oldest schools and university. College street in central Kolkata is lined with bookshops where you can buy and sell new and used books. Calcutta University, which is the oldest university of India in also located here.   College Street is also home to the famous Indian Coffee House. Indian Coffee House is a “must stop” in the city of joy … it is old and rustic and takes you back in time. The menu is very reasonable, and the coffee is great. I also tried the Singara, which is the Bengali name for a Samosa. You must visit the coffee house for its old charm. The interiors of the coffee house take you back in time. It is very basic and not even close to sophistication but if you don’t stop here for a cup of hot coffee you will miss something.       The Flower Market of Kolkata was undoubtedly the most thrilling part of my day. If there is only one place in Kolkata which you can visit, then it should be this. As you walk across the footbridge, over the rustic railway tracks, you cross a line of flower vendors, squatting on the road with their basket of flowers. It is easy to believe that this is the flower market, but not just yet.   Over the bridge and beside the Ganga River is home to the breathtaking Kolkata Flower market. The colours are a treat for the eye and so is the aroma from the flowers. Each section is dedicated to a particular variety of flower. There are flowers everywhere and in thousands. The flower market is very crowded, and you must swiftly move. There was absolutely no time to stop and admire without having a few people bump into you.  Porters carrying heavy flower baskets on their head, like to keep moving without interruption. The ground is muddy and slippery- I would recommend wearing comfortable shoes when you visit. I wore slippers and came out with black feet!!   The famous Howrah bridge located right beside the flower market. I got a good view of the bridge from the river side and had an opportunity to walk over the bridge. The bridge has a separate pedestrian walkway which is lined with vendors selling, cool drinks and street snacks. By the time I reached the flower market, it was already noon, and the sun was shining with all its glory. It was hot and humid. By the river side, you will see locals resting and taking a break from their work for their afternoon snack. Some people were taking a dip in the river as well.   It was now 12 noon; the traditional blue buses and yellow taxis criss-crossed the busy roads of the city. As the sun was shining in all its glory, in true Kolkata style the locals had their umbrellas out to guard them against the scorching sun.

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Hyderabad- The city of Nizams

Hyderabad is famously known as the City of the “Nizam”. It is renowned for its etiquette, Hyderabadi Biryani, Karachi Biscuits and of course the world-famous Hyderabadi pearls. For most of its historic existence, Hyderabad has been ruled by the Qutab dynasty who came from Persia and by the Nizams who came from Turkey. When travelling to Hyderabad, visit it’s iconic places; learn about the history (which is super fascinating) ; buy pearls and eat yummy Hyderabad food. During my trip I visited the Golconda fort, the Shahi Tombs and enjoyed biryani and Irani tea at Paradise restaurant. I was also brave enough to visit Charminar, Old Hyderabad and the Nizam’s Palaces on Eid. Read further to know more about where to visit and what you can see in Hyderabad. Gorkonda Fort Hyderabad Golkonda Fort The Qutub’s are commonly referred to as the Golkonda Kings. Most of the History of Golkonda Fort and the Shahi Tombs are related to them. As you enter the Golkonda Fort you arrive at the Bala Hisar Gate. It is believed that if you stand at the gate clap the sound will travel up to the council room of the Fort.  The counsel of the Golkonda Fort is at 450 Feet from the ground and almost 400 steps each way.  Your guide will warn you of the long and steep walk up the fort to see the council, but it is completely worth the effort. The view from the top is stunning. There is also a temple enroute- Jagadayam Temple, which is believed to be centuries old.  It is not very grand in its appearance but has deep-rooted religious and mythological connections. There is a festival each year in July and August at the temple and devotees come from all over during that time to worship at the temple. Golkonda Fort is also home to a 14 feet long rifle of the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. It was built in the 13th century and has been home to many dynasties. Golconda was renowned for the Golconda Diamonds which were commonly traded there. The Koh-I-Noor Diamond, which is the world’s largest cut diamond, is said to have been found in a mine nearby. The fort, which is now a ruin overlooks the city of Hyderabad.   Shahi Tombs Hyderabad Shahi Tombs Close to the Golkonda Fort are the Shahi Tombs, it is here the Golkonda rulers are buried. The Tombs were built in the lifetime of the ruler and only 10% of work was done later. All tombs have a mosque . The Tombs have beautiful mosaic on the outside, the complex is quiet and peaceful. I only visited one Tomb from the inside and saw three others from outside included one incomplete Tomb, before I felt that I had seen enough. It is still worth a visit!!! Paradise Restaurant Paradise Resturant Biryani My next stop was a lunch break at the famous Paradise restaurant. No trip to Hyderabad is complete without trying Hyderabadi Biriyani. Paradise chain of restaurants is one of the oldest and best Briyani houses in Hyderabad and for good reason. They have several branches around the city, the branch which I went to was clean and hygienic and the service was super-fast. Much of Hyderabadi cuisine is influenced by the food of the Qutubs’ and Nizams’. For example, Haleem, which is meat cooked with spices and lentils until it is broken down naturally to almost a puree. This was invented by the chef of the Nizam ruler who did not have teeth so couldn’t chew. I had the mutton Biryani which comes with Salan (gravy) and raita (beaten yoghurt). I also tried Hyderabad’s famous Iranian Tea – It is made by cooking milk with spices. It is a creamy, sweet, full of favour, strong tea. I certainly recommend trying that. Old Hyderabad Hyderabad Charminar We later continued to visit the Charminar, Old Hyderabad and the Nizam’s Palaces. We drove past  Jubilee Hills where all the famous movies stars of Hyderabad stay. As we drove towards Old Hyderabad, I witnessed many celebrating Eid n the roads. You can feel you are in a different place. We parked our car in the parking of the Nizam’s Place and walked towards Charminar. Charminar, which literally translates to Four Minarets, is an iconic monument of Hyderabad and often the face of Hyderabad in magazines and movies.   It stands tall and erected in the middle of the busy old city street. It was built when the emperor moved his capital from Golkonda to Hyderabad.  There is a mosque within Charminar which is home to several festivities of the city. You can climb up the Minar for a perfect view of the city. As I visited on Eid, the streets were overcrowded with processions and young boys on their bikes and jeeps. The Charminar was completely inaccessible, so I did not visit the monument, but I got a real feel of the place. The markets around Charminar are lined with wholesale pearl vendors and glass bangle shops. It is highly recommended for a true shopping experience. The Chowmahalla Palace which translates in English as 4 places are located at a walkable distance from the Charminar in Old Hyderabad. Be ready to be awestruck by the exquisite collection of the palace. The chandeliers will make you green-eyed with envy. The Palace building is surrounded by beautiful gardens and gives you a good insight into the royal lives of the Nizams. While the construction of the palace began in 1750, it was completed by1869. Nizaam Palace Hyderabad Ramaji Film Studio We finally drove towards Ramaji Film Studio, where I was staying for the night. Ramaji Film studio is a state of art film studio just outside Hyderabad city. It is here where the blockbuster hit movie Bahubali was shot.  You can visit the studio and the sets of Bahubali movie. The Film Studio tour will also take you around some of the other famous sets and into their amusement park which is very popular with children. I visited Hyderabad in December 2017. The weather was perfect throughout the day, not very hot or humid. Just right for sightseeing. I visited Hyderabad on Eid, which I then thought would be a lovely experience but I know now that it is definitely not a good day for sightseeing or

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Awesome Assam – The Land of the Rhinos and Tea

When we started to plan our winter vacation, North East of India seemed to be the obvious choice. I had never been to this region before, and I had heard so many stories about this dynamic and unexplored part of India. I wanted to take my daughter to Kaziranga National Park which is located in Assam (“Awesome Assam“). During our planning stage, we came across an amazing river cruise on the Brahmaputra river.  As the second half of our journey was already planned, we joined the upstream departure for 3 nights only instead of the regular 7 nights program.   Unlike river cruises around the world which are about enjoying sonic beauty, river cruises in India are about experiencing unique elements and seeing unexplored and unseen places. The North East of India has so many hidden gems and exploring Assam on a river cruise is an amazing idea as you stay in comfort , enjoy good food and the best part- you don’t have to pack and unpack on a daily basis. River Cruise Experience We were received at Guwahati airport and transferred to the riverfront where our boat awaited. Enroute we had an option to visit the Kamakhya Temple. The Temple is dedicated to the goddess of desire whose name is Kama Khya. She is believed in Hindu mythology to be the granter of desires. From here we continued to the port to embark on the cruise. When we arrived at the Port, we walked across a massive bamboo walkway to reach the vessel. The cruise staff was very welcoming, we were offered a welcome drink and escorted to our cabins. Bamboo bridge leading to the Boat It wasn’t long before we saw some adorable river dolphins hopping in and out of the water. You have to be patient and need to wait for the perfect moment when they pop out for just about a second. Unlike ocean dolphins, which are blue in color, these river dolphins are brown in color. Looking out for River Dolphins As we started to cruise on the river Brahmaputra, we witnessed the calm and bold river and the serene life on its banks. The Brahmaputra is a fast-moving river and is known for its moving and changing sandbanks. There are a number of  tiny sand islands created by the river and they all disappear at some point in the year. The islands are free for nomads to use and cultivate on. When the islands’ flood during the rainy (monsoon) season they are vacated by the nomads. As the water retracts, these nomads return and find for themselves a new island. Due to the shifting sandbanks of the river, our boat had a smaller pilot boat traveling ahead of it checking the water for sandbanks and clearing the way for the bigger boat. River Island created by Sand-Banks On our first afternoon, we visited a unique island known as the Peacock island where we saw the Golden Langur. It is believed by the locals that whoever visits the Kamakhaya temple, must then visit the temple on peacock island to fulfill the prayers. The peacock island is the smallest inhabited island in the world with only the priest and his family living on it. There is one Golden Langur on this island and he is clearly the celebrity of the place. Golden Langur at Peacock Island The following day was at ease and we visited a local village where Bangla community stays. We visited the fields, a village home, silver jewelry shop, barbershop, and had ample opportunity to engage with the locals in the village. We also saw a number of vegetables grow. This was the livelihood of people in the village. The was a school, which was closed for winter break. Inside a village home at the Bangla Village in Assam Mustard fields at the Bangla Village in Assam For our visit to the village we were transferred from our cruise to smaller boats. It was very interesting to see how the boat navigated through the sandbanks on the river and reached the banks of the village. The cruise crew then made make-belief steps by carving the sand on the banks so we could reach the village and return to the boat with ease. Children seeing of the boat after the Village Tour. Village tour of Bangla Village, Assam The following day we cruised all day. The day was warm but the night was cold. Due to heavy fog in the morning, our cruising was delayed and our scheduled program for today had to be adjusted . The staff was very professional and experienced and knowledgeable. They did what was best to make our journey comfortable and safe. They made sure we didn’t miss any experience or excursion due to the delay. Our third night on the cruise was short. We had to wake up early for our excursion. We woke up at 2:30 am and departed the cruise by 3 am. A 45-minute drive from the dock took us to Kaziranga National Park. Here we enjoyed pre-breakfast at a resort before continuing to visit the national park. Our first experience at the National park was on elephant backs. We  experienced the beautiful sunrise as the elephants glided through the tall grass of the Park. We saw a number of Rhinos, big and small, grazing in the Jungle. Sunrise during Elephant Safari – Kaziranga National Park, Assam Elephant Safari – Kaziranga National Park, Assam Elephant Safari at Kaziranga National Park, Assam We then returned to another resort for a full breakfast before returning to the jungle for a jeep safari. Our naturalist showed us a number of birds and wild animals including more Rhinos. Open Jeep Safari at Kaziranga National Park, Assam Jeep Safari at Kaziranga National Park, Assam Rhino spotted during Jeep Safari at Kaziranga National Park Rhino spotted during Jeep Safari at Kaziranga National Park Next on our schedule, today was visit to the beautiful tea gardens. We drove right into the middle of a private garden and enjoyed tribal dance

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